| My rather shrill and decidedly
| |
| | anxious exchanges between the driver and
|
| temperamental Thai alarm clock surprised
| |
| | his companion, I assumed the contents
|
| me immensely by sounding at 5am. Prior to
| |
| | weren't technically allowed to leave Laos
|
| this morning's unexpected accuracy my
| |
| | and enter Vietnam. Something fishy was
|
| contender for the world's cheapest and
| |
| | going on but that wasn't my chief
|
| most unreliable alarm clock had both
| |
| | concern. As we pulled to a stop behind
|
| completely failed to activate, and also
| |
| | various other vehicles at the border post
|
| gone off at 3.45am without my having any
| |
| | I was more than a little pre-occupied
|
| recollection of setting it for that
| |
| | with the possiblity that I might be
|
| ungodly hour. On that notable occasion I
| |
| | denied entry into Vietnam. Precisely what
|
| was on my way from Bangkok to Chaing Mai,
| |
| | I would be do in this event I did not
|
| and was sharing a first-class sleeper
| |
| | know. The cardboard boxes were the least
|
| compartment with perhaps twenty fellow
| |
| | of my worries.After waiting around for
|
| backpacker's and a handful of wealthy
| |
| | what seemed an eternity it was our
|
| Thai's. Thankfully I had my curtain drawn
| |
| | vehicle's turn to approach the border
|
| across so no-one realised the source of
| |
| | guards. I was stamped out of Laos with
|
| their nocturnal interruption.Where was I?
| |
| | the minimum of fuss. Confirming my
|
| Oh, yes, Vientiane the capital city of
| |
| | suspicions that something fishy was
|
| Laos PDR, 5am and the scene of my first
| |
| | indeed going on, I witnessed my driver
|
| major success with my erratic little
| |
| | palm a border official some money. The
|
| alarm clock.Vientiane had proven itself
| |
| | search of our vehicle was then less
|
| to be a rather dull and uninspiring city.
| |
| | thorough than usual and with the
|
| So it was with a certain sense of relief
| |
| | cardboard boxes officially ignored we
|
| that i bounded out of bed, washed,
| |
| | were waved through. Towards the
|
| dressed, slung my backpack over my
| |
| | Vietnamese side of the border!Being the
|
| shoulder, and sauntered outside in search
| |
| | only westerner in our group I had to
|
| of a tuk tuk to take me to the bus
| |
| | wander over to the imposing Immigration
|
| station.For anyone who may be wondering,
| |
| | Building on my own. My heart was in my
|
| finding a tuk tuk in the dark and
| |
| | mouth as I presented my passport to the
|
| deserted streets of Vientiane at a little
| |
| | unsmiling official. As he thumbed through
|
| after 5am is surprisingly easy. Firstly,
| |
| | my passport to find my visa I realised
|
| walk for around twenty minutes in what
| |
| | that my immediate future lay in this
|
| you assume is the direction of the
| |
| | indifferent man's hands. I felt less than
|
| riverfront. At this stage you may, if you
| |
| | comfortable. Soon enough he had located
|
| are anything like me, suddenly become
| |
| | my visa and was beckoning over his
|
| aware of the fact that you are a little
| |
| | stony-faced colleague. After a brief,
|
| bit disoriented. Fear not, for if you
| |
| | unreadable conversation the other man
|
| strike out down that little road to the
| |
| | walked away. The man behind the
|
| left, completely on a whim as I did, you
| |
| | plexi-glass coughed, yawned and then
|
| will be sure to stumble out almost
| |
| | looked me right in the eyes. My heart
|
| exactly where you had intended to be.
| |
| | sank. He cleared his throat, it was the
|
| Assuming you are anything like me of
| |
| | moment of truth.The Immigration official
|
| course.In my case I arrived at the
| |
| | spoke. My heart was beating so loudly in
|
| riverfront near to the delicious food
| |
| | my ears I thought he said $10. He did say
|
| stalls that are open at night time.
| |
| | $10! I slipped the note under the counter
|
| Unfortunately at this hour one is not
| |
| | and watched as he placed that glorious
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| greeted by the terrific aroma of frying
| |
| | stamp in my passport, slid it back to me
|
| beef, simmering lemon grass and sizzling
| |
| | and waved me into Vietnam. Easy. What had
|
| chilli. Unfortunately at this hour one is
| |
| | I been worrying about?Safely back in the
|
| not greeted by anything or anyone much at
| |
| | van I replayed the scene in my mind. Was
|
| all. Suffice to say there wasn't a soul
| |
| | it a bribe? Or was it an official fee
|
| about, let alone a tuk tuk in sight.
| |
| | imposed when entering the country one day
|
| Having factored this precise scenario
| |
| | early? My guidebook couldn't clarify this
|
| into my morning's schedule I was aware
| |
| | for me and frankly I wasn't fussed. I had
|
| that I still had plenty of time. The bus
| |
| | made it into Vietnam and what an
|
| I needed to take to theborder town of Lak
| |
| | exhilarating way to do so!So, I found
|
| Sao didn't leave until 6.30am, and I had
| |
| | myself, twelve hours after my alarm clock
|
| been reliably informed that the bus
| |
| | had finally realised it's potential, in
|
| station was only ten minutes by tuk
| |
| | the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. As the
|
| tuk.However, I didn't much relish the
| |
| | day gradually shifted into night I stared
|
| thought of an early morning hike without
| |
| | at the rolling hills of green and allowed
|
| food in my belly, and with only my
| |
| | my self to relax and take stock. I hadn't
|
| heavily laden backpack for company. But
| |
| | meant to when I woke up this morning but
|
| hike I did and just when I was giving up
| |
| | I had made it into Vietnam. I had thirty
|
| hope of ever finding a tuk tuk I spotted
| |
| | days to explore this fascinating and
|
| a slumbering soldier with a rifle across
| |
| | beautiful country. I was excited and I
|
| his lap. An ambiguous and non-committal
| |
| | was content. In amongst all the panic and
|
| hand gesture was his only response to my
| |
| | confusion back at the border I had
|
| polite enquiry about a tuk tuk. So I
| |
| | managed to find some food and a bottle of
|
| simply pressed on. Several minutes later
| |
| | water. I sat back and let myself enjoy
|
| and with my mood darkening, a solitary
| |
| | the journey.I'm not sure how long I had
|
| tuk tuk loomed on the horizon. Quite a
| |
| | been day-dreaming for but I suddenly
|
| magnificent sight if the truth be told.
| |
| | became aware that the co-driver had
|
| With my previously sagging spirits given
| |
| | clambered through the minibus and was
|
| a mighty lift I began to march towards
| |
| | sitting in the seat next to me. I
|
| the tuk tuk, very aware that my bus was
| |
| | reluctantly snapped out of my reverie and
|
| due to leave in a little over half an
| |
| | realised that he had been asking me for
|
| hour.After waking up the dozing and
| |
| | another $10. In Lak Sao I had agreed a
|
| dishevelled driver and negotiating a
| |
| | price of $5 to be driven to Vinh, in
|
| price, I was very soon hurtling through
| |
| | Vietnam. Now they were suddenly demanding
|
| the early morning city streets towards
| |
| | more. I argued for a while, angry that
|
| the bus station. People were beginning to
| |
| | the Vietnamese passengers weren't being
|
| stir, monks were strolling in search of
| |
| | asked for $10. I knew a two-tier pricing
|
| alms, and roadside stalls and other
| |
| | system existed in South-East Asia, and
|
| businesses were slowly being readied for
| |
| | had had no problem with it until now, but
|
| the day ahead. The sun was unhurriedly
| |
| | being confronted with it so blatantly
|
| rising and lighting the scenes unfurling
| |
| | made me exasperated. My arguments proved
|
| around me in a most agreeable manner.
| |
| | futile and faced with no choice I handed
|
| Vientiane at this hour appeared gentle
| |
| | over the $10 very begrudgingly. I wasn't
|
| and charming, almost attractive. But I
| |
| | having the best day of my trip and all I
|
| had a bus to catch and with about two
| |
| | wanted was to get to Vinh, fall asleep
|
| minutes to spare we screeched into the
| |
| | and start again tomorrow.About seven
|
| bus station, my driver hurling my bag at
| |
| | O'Clock we stopped in a dirty,
|
| me and pointing to my bus and the ticket
| |
| | nondescript little town. Mistakenly
|
| office.I ran to the ticket office and
| |
| | assuming we were stopping for food or to
|
| bought a ticket before attempting to
| |
| | use the toilet, it came as a great shock
|
| board the bus. I had to take my backpack
| |
| | when I was told we had to change to
|
| on the bus with me and clambering over
| |
| | another minibus. I hadn't been told this
|
| sacks of rice, various baskets and cages
| |
| | earlier, and nor it seemed had my fellow
|
| of livestock and one notably diminutive
| |
| | passengers. We were all a bit confused
|
| man, proved a little tricky. I soon came
| |
| | and our doubts and suspicions were soon
|
| to the realisation that there weren't any
| |
| | magnified by the arrival of our new
|
| seats left on the bus. Sensing that i was
| |
| | driver. Beady-eyed, unkempt and smelling
|
| a little perplexed as to where I was
| |
| | distinctly of rice wine he was not an
|
| going to spend the next 8 or so hours, a
| |
| | individual that easily instilled
|
| kindly old lady with a basket of chickens
| |
| | confidence. Especially considering I
|
| and assortment of vegetables on her
| |
| | hadn't had the most relaxing of days thus
|
| elderly lap pointed in the direction of a
| |
| | far and was feeling quite fatigued. Now I
|
| pile of sacks at the end of the bus. I
| |
| | was stood in a grubby little town
|
| nodded my thanks and reminded myself of
| |
| | somewhere between the border with Laos,
|
| the fact that I was travelling on a
| |
| | and Vinh, our final destination. It was
|
| public bus in Laos after all. This was
| |
| | pouring with rain and my new driver
|
| what travel was all about and why I had
| |
| | appeared to be drunk. Vietnamese roads at
|
| chosen to travel by public bus in the
| |
| | night have a reputation for being very
|
| first place. I chucked my pack onto the
| |
| | crowded and very poorly lit. Accidents
|
| back seat and slumped into my pile of
| |
| | are common and travellers are strongly
|
| sacks. I actually found them to be quite
| |
| | advised not to travel by road after
|
| agreeable.I couldn't see out the windows
| |
| | dark.Not faced with a tremendous amount
|
| which is normally how i pass long bus
| |
| | of options I shoved my pack into the bus
|
| journeys, so instead I read my book and
| |
| | and jumped in after it. No sooner had I
|
| drifted in and out of a sleep of the
| |
| | slammed the door shut we were off. We
|
| head-lolling, jolt awake variety. Apart
| |
| | pulled into the frantic melee of scooters
|
| from a cacophony of noise provided by the
| |
| | and drove for all of about ten minutes
|
| wildfowl on board, the journey was
| |
| | before stopping abruptly. The driver
|
| uneventful by South-East Asian standards,
| |
| | alighted the vehicle and entered what
|
| and we arrived in Lak Sao at 3pm.My plan
| |
| | appeared to be a house. Quarter of an
|
| was to find a guesthouse and explore Lak
| |
| | hour later he re-appeared and came
|
| Sao for a while, and then spend the night
| |
| | ambling towards the vehicle before slowly
|
| there beofre heading into Vietnam in the
| |
| | and unsteadily re-positioning himself in
|
| morning. I was in no hurry, my Vietnamese
| |
| | the driver's seat. His hair was wet and
|
| visa started on 18th September, today was
| |
| | slicked back and smelt unmistakably of
|
| 17th. I had plenty of time so I was happy
| |
| | shampoo. He had also changed his clothes.
|
| to break the journey into two and move
| |
| | It appeared that our potentially
|
| nice and steadily.Finding out via ten
| |
| | inebriated driver had treated himself to
|
| minutes of sign language that there was
| |
| | a quick shower before propelling us to
|
| in fact no guesthouse in Lak Sao slightly
| |
| | Vinh. Despite having been awake and on
|
| scuppered my plans. That they proved to
| |
| | the move for over fifteen hours, and
|
| be ill-researched plans had sadly led to
| |
| | having a rapidly diminishing sense of
|
| my current predicament. My style of
| |
| | fun, I managed a smile at this man's
|
| travel has and always will be the "wing
| |
| | unbelievable nerve. I actually quite
|
| it and see what happens" style of travel.
| |
| | liked the way this chap conducted
|
| This "things will work themselves out in
| |
| | himself! I just hoped he wasn't really
|
| their own weird and wonderful way"
| |
| | loaded and that we made it to Vinh in one
|
| approach to travelling has led me into
| |
| | piece.If he was driving under the
|
| some fascinating situations in the past
| |
| | influence it never showed, and three
|
| and inevitably will do so again in the
| |
| | hours or so after his shower our
|
| future. Usually I emerge unscathed and
| |
| | inimitable driver pulled alongside a kerb
|
| armed with a unique story. That's the
| |
| | and triumphantly announced that we had
|
| theory anyway.The only time this theory
| |
| | made it to Vinh. The time was 10.45pm and
|
| cannot be applied, confidently at least,
| |
| | I had now been awake for seventeen hours
|
| is when one is trying to enter the
| |
| | and forty five minutes. In that time I
|
| Socialist Republic of Vietnam one day
| |
| | had stumbled and groped my through the
|
| before their visa officially begins. From
| |
| | dark streets of Vientiane in search of a
|
| all that I had heard on the traveller's
| |
| | tuk tuk. I had been sat on the floor of a
|
| grapevine I had about as much chance of
| |
| | public bus surrounded by quacking,
|
| entering Vietnam on this particular day
| |
| | squeaking, and clucking farm animals. I
|
| as I did of finding rocking-horse shit!
| |
| | discovered that there wasn't a guesthouse
|
| However, I didn't have many options and I
| |
| | in Lak Sao. I had shared a minibus with
|
| had given up trying to explain my
| |
| | one man constantly smoking and another
|
| predicament to the friendly but insistent
| |
| | constantly spitting into a plastic bag. I
|
| group of guys offering to drive me to the
| |
| | had unwittingly been involved in an
|
| border and on into Vietnam.So with a
| |
| | illegal smuggling operation although I
|
| great deal of trepidation I threw my bag
| |
| | only played a very minor role. I had
|
| onto the roof of the minibus, paid my $5
| |
| | possibly bribed a Vietnamese Immigration
|
| and took a seat. I soon learned that I
| |
| | Official. I had been ripped off. I had
|
| was to be sharing this nerve-jangling
| |
| | swapped minibuses in a dingy little town.
|
| journey with a very curious bunch of
| |
| | My new driver had snuck off for a quick
|
| people, who I later realised constituted
| |
| | shower. He may well have been drunk. It
|
| my first impression of the Vietnamese.The
| |
| | had certainly been a long and enervating
|
| gentleman sitting just across the aisle
| |
| | day.Alas, we had finally reached Vinh and
|
| was chain-smoking ghastly smelling
| |
| | I felt an immense sense of relief washing
|
| cigarettes with his window firmly rolled
| |
| | over me. I had made it. I began to
|
| down. Another fellow kept hawking up
| |
| | reflect on how these situations always
|
| phlegm from the recesses of his lungs and
| |
| | have a habit of working themselves out in
|
| periodically depositing it into a plastic
| |
| | the end. Then I realised that I was
|
| bag he appeared to have brought with him
| |
| | exhausted and had to find a bed for the
|
| for just that purpose. My third and final
| |
| | night. So I asked my driver the
|
| fellow passenger was a Vietnamese lady
| |
| | whereabouts of the nearest hotel. True to
|
| who, to her credit, displayed rather more
| |
| | his unpredictable nature he shrugged,
|
| unobtrusive and sociable character
| |
| | pointed up the road somewhat vaguely, and
|
| traits. At one stage in our journey she
| |
| | proceeded to drop my backpack into the
|
| silently offered to share her fried rice
| |
| | deepest puddle I had ever seen. With that
|
| with me. Not meaning to offend I
| |
| | he cleared his lungs, spat vehemently
|
| nevertheless politely declined her kind
| |
| | inches from my feet, nonchalantly combed
|
| offer.Alongside myself and the Vietnamese
| |
| | back his hair and sprang into his cockpit
|
| passengers were row upon row of cardboard
| |
| | before speeding away.Excuse me, where did
|
| boxes. Quite what these contained I do
| |
| | you say that hotel was again?
|
| not know but judging from the hushed,
| |
| |
|
