| Maybe when you were a child your father gave | | | | * EF-45 or XF-45, choice extremely fine: all |
| you his old pennies. And then you began | | | | design details are sharp; some mint luster |
| collecting more unique coins, seeking out | | | | remains, though perhaps only in "protected |
| those rarities that would some day make you | | | | areas" |
| rich. It was like a treasure hunt. It was a | | | | |
| thrill. | | | | * EF-40 or XF-40, extremely fine: slightly |
| | | | more wear than a "45"; traces of mint luster |
| Just because you're an adult doesn't mean you | | | | may show. |
| need to stop collecting coins. If you never | | | | |
| collected coins, it is never too soon to | | | | * VF-30, choice very fine: light even wear on |
| start. | | | | high points, all lettering and design details |
| | | | are sharp. |
| Coin collecting become popular in the 1930s | | | | |
| when the United States began distributing | | | | * VF-20, very fine: most details are still |
| commemorative coins. More and more people | | | | well defined; high points are smooth |
| began recognizing the value coins had, | | | | |
| whether they were specialty coins they sought | | | | * F-12, fine: major elements are still clear |
| out or coins in their own pockets. So if you | | | | but details are worn away. |
| want to start collecting, here are a few | | | | |
| things to know. | | | | * VG-8, very good: major design elements, |
| | | | letters and numerals are worn but clear. |
| When collecting, spend some time doing your | | | | |
| homework, understanding how coins are graded | | | | * G-4, good: major design elements are |
| and how to recognize counterfeits. You should | | | | outlined but details are gone; for some |
| also buy a reference book covering your area | | | | series the date may not be sharp and the rim |
| of interest. Such books will provide you with | | | | may not be complete. |
| some basic numbers on a coins value. | | | | |
| | | | * AG-3, about good: heavily worn; date may be |
| In getting your first coins, you can begin by | | | | barely discernible. |
| going through your own change jar. This is | | | | |
| called collecting coins from circulation. | | | | If you don't have extra coins in your piggy |
| Study these types of coins and compare them | | | | bank, the next best place to start is with a |
| to what your reference book tells you about | | | | coin shop. By purchasing from a dealer, you |
| them. Get familiar with the terminology and | | | | are able to deal with somebody who is |
| grading values. The value of a coin can vary | | | | experienced and who can offer you advice and |
| considerably depending on its grade. The | | | | assistance. Of course you can find coins |
| American Numismatic Association standards are | | | | online and at swap meets, but if you aren't |
| as follows: Fair, Fine, Very Fine, Extremely | | | | experienced enough in recognizing a coin's |
| Fine, Uncirculated and Fleur-de-coin. These | | | | value, you could potentially get scammed. |
| standards look like this: | | | | |
| | | | The last type of coin collecting is coins |
| * AU-58, very choice about uncirculated: just | | | | that are called bullion (silver, gold and |
| traces of wear on a coin with nearly full | | | | platinum). Bullion is often produced in the |
| luster and no major detracting contact marks | | | | form of ingots, bars, rounds but also is |
| | | | comes in coin form. These coins are valued on |
| * AU-55, choice about uncirculated: small | | | | their content and as the value of gold, |
| traces of wear visible on the highest points. | | | | silver and platinum increases, so does your |
| | | | collection. |
| * AU-50, about uncirculated: very light wear | | | | |
| on the highest points; still has at least | | | | Is coin collecting just for kids? Not |
| half of the original mint luster. | | | | anymore. |
| | | | |