| Maybe when you were a child your father gave | | | | the highest points; still has at least half of the |
| you his old pennies. And then you began collecting | | | | original mint luster. |
| more unique coins, seeking out those rarities that | | | | * EF-45 or XF-45, choice extremely fine: all design |
| would some day make you rich. It was like a | | | | details are sharp; some mint luster remains, |
| treasure hunt. It was a thrill. | | | | though perhaps only in "protected areas" |
| Just because you're an adult doesn't mean you | | | | * EF-40 or XF-40, extremely fine: slightly more |
| need to stop collecting coins. If you never | | | | wear than a "45"; traces of mint luster may |
| collected coins, it is never too soon to start. | | | | show. |
| Coin collecting become popular in the 1930s when | | | | * VF-30, choice very fine: light even wear on high |
| the United States began distributing | | | | points, all lettering and design details are sharp. |
| commemorative coins. More and more people | | | | * VF-20, very fine: most details are still well |
| began recognizing the value coins had, whether | | | | defined; high points are smooth |
| they were specialty coins they sought out or | | | | * F-12, fine: major elements are still clear but |
| coins in their own pockets. So if you want to | | | | details are worn away. |
| start collecting, here are a few things to know. | | | | * VG-8, very good: major design elements, |
| When collecting, spend some time doing your | | | | letters and numerals are worn but clear. |
| homework, understanding how coins are graded | | | | * G-4, good: major design elements are outlined |
| and how to recognize counterfeits. You should | | | | but details are gone; for some series the date |
| also buy a reference book covering your area of | | | | may not be sharp and the rim may not be |
| interest. Such books will provide you with some | | | | complete. |
| basic numbers on a coins value. | | | | * AG-3, about good: heavily worn; date may be |
| In getting your first coins, you can begin by going | | | | barely discernible. |
| through your own change jar. This is called | | | | If you don't have extra coins in your piggy bank, |
| collecting coins from circulation. Study these types | | | | the next best place to start is with a coin shop. |
| of coins and compare them to what your | | | | By purchasing from a dealer, you are able to deal |
| reference book tells you about them. Get familiar | | | | with somebody who is experienced and who can |
| with the terminology and grading values. The | | | | offer you advice and assistance. Of course you |
| value of a coin can vary considerably depending | | | | can find coins online and at swap meets, but if |
| on its grade. The American Numismatic | | | | you aren't experienced enough in recognizing a |
| Association standards are as follows: Fair, Fine, | | | | coin's value, you could potentially get scammed. |
| Very Fine, Extremely Fine, Uncirculated and | | | | The last type of coin collecting is coins that are |
| Fleur-de-coin. These standards look like this: | | | | called bullion (silver, gold and platinum). Bullion is |
| * AU-58, very choice about uncirculated: just | | | | often produced in the form of ingots, bars, |
| traces of wear on a coin with nearly full luster and | | | | rounds but also is comes in coin form. These coins |
| no major detracting contact marks | | | | are valued on their content and as the value of |
| * AU-55, choice about uncirculated: small traces of | | | | gold, silver and platinum increases, so does your |
| wear visible on the highest points. | | | | collection. |
| * AU-50, about uncirculated: very light wear on | | | | Is coin collecting just for kids? Not anymore. |